GETTING YOUR HOME READY FOR A NEW PUPPY

GETTING YOUR HOME READY FOR A NEW PUPPY:

                      

                                       Among God’s creatures, the dog has

                                        taken all the sizes and shapes, in order

                                        not to be separated from the man.

When parents find out they are going to have a child they make all sorts of preparation.

A room is set aside with a baby bed. Walls are painted or an attractive wall-paper is pasted. Supply of formula fills the pantry, baby bottles, pacifiers, diapers are stocked. Toys fill the room. After a lot of homework, the baby’s doctor is selected.

A new puppy is no less than a small child. You need to make the same preparation for a new puppy before it comes home.

               

I have to confess though, when we brought home our little Buddy, a Doberman, we were just not prepared. At nine weeks he had lost his mother in a road accident, and who could deny or overlook a lovable and a frisky bundle of joy giving us his hugs and kisses.  That day he joined our family pack. It was also a beginning for us to enter his fascinating world.

                                                                           Buddy

Bringing Home a new puppy is truly one of life’s joys.

Preparations and patience are key to building a happy family.

But lack of planning, preparation or puppy care experience, can make those early days stressful and frustrating.  And believe me, I have been there.

WHAT TO DO AND BRING FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY.

PUPPY- PROOF YOUR HOME:

Before bringing your new dog home, there are some precautions you should take and arrangements made to help protect him from possible harm. Puppies like small children tend to be curious. If you are not sure what changes need to be made, crawl around on all fours to get a dog’s eye view of the place, you will be surprised of what you may find underneath the furniture and in some nook and crannies

Here are a few suggestions to puppy-proof your home, but it’s not exhaustive.

       Do not leave electrical cords exposed.  

       Block off stairs or rooms you wish with a baby gate.

       Place certain human foods such as chocolates, onions, grapes, 
       hard-shell nuts out of reach of your dog.

       Keep all trash cans behind closed doors.

       Keep all medications in a safe place.

       Fence your yard and keep the gate closed.

       Put the toilet seat down.

Over a time with your dog you will learn his tendencies to make additional changes as some dogs are chewers, some are diggers and some are just hyper.

INDOOR PLANTS:

Protect plants from puppies not only to prevent puppy plant poisoning, but also keep your plants safe. Plants that are toxin can make puppies vomit, cause diarrhea or worse if the puppy eats them.

Puppies may also get confused seeing indoor plants, and perhaps try to help you

wee-wee-water them.

GARDEN PLANTS:

There are all sorts of dangers for dogs in a garden. Some plants may be toxic and harmful.

Puppies are even more vulnerable since their main purpose in life is to explore the world.

The earlier you start training your dog the better. Old dogs can learn new tricks, but with a puppy, begin training as soon as you bring it home.

Teaching your dog not to eat plants is most easily achieved when they are puppies. The key thing is to teach a puppy not to chew and that educating part starts at home.

Once your puppy has learnt the basics of not eating plants, you will probably decide to leave him loose in the garden most of the time. 

PUPPY PROOFING YOUR KIDS FROM DOG BITES:

Children should be taught to understand that dogs are not toys but living creatures who feel pain. They need to be taught that ears aren't for pulling and eyes aren't for poking. This rule applies to an adult dog or a puppy. Too many people assume that nice dogs will put up with anything a kid dishes out. That’s not fair to the dog. All too often we hear about a dog that bit a child ‘without warning’ but if the child doesn't understand a dog’s signals and neither do the adults who should be in charge, the dog   may eventually nip.

Young puppies play rough and have sharp teeth and claws. They are used to playing with their litter-mates. Puppies play with their mouths and feet, they play rough. Your puppy needs to know that teeth do not belong on human skin.

BRINGING HOME A NEW PUP:

The key to helping your new dog make a successful adjustment to your home is being prepared and being patient. It can take anywhere from two days to two months for you and your pet to adjust to each other.

Puppies or kittens, in particular, experience a lot of stress because they are being separated from their mom and litter-mates for the first time. A new environment might bring them allergic reaction to their immune system.

Give them a lot of attention during the first couple of days. Make them feel like this is their new home.

Remember, they have a brand new family, humans or other four-legged members as well.

On the big day it’s difficult to be calm, you and your family is excited, and the puppy is adorable. But remember your puppy is a tiny baby, he needs love, attention and play-time. He also needs lots of peace and quiet, naps and potty breaks. A young pup generally has very limited bladder and bowel control. But if he “holds it” for several hours, don’t panic, this is instinctive.

When you get home and ‘before’ you take your new pup into the house, take him to his ‘potty spot’ right away and let him relieve himself. This helps him to get started on his potty training right away.

Once you take him indoor you can let him explore his new surroundings at his own pace. Supervise him at all times even if you have ‘puppy-proofed’ your house, he might still surprise you.

To begin with, initially don’t allow him to have a full access to the house. This will be confusing and maybe a little scary too.

It is important that you make provisions for your puppy when you are not at home. Until your puppy is house-trained, he should not be allowed a free run of your house. Otherwise he will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles everywhere and anywhere.

Confine your pup to a comfortable small area that has water stain resistant floors.

   Don’t get angry at your new dog if things don’t go your way.

   Have a positive attitude and your pet will follow.

   Be patient, you may want to force the pet to get along, but that doesn't work. 
   They will come around eventually.

CRATE TRAINING:

Start crate training right away, but don’t expect your puppy to like it right away.

A crate uses a dog’s natural instincts as a den animal.

A wild dog’s den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger and raise a family.

The crate becomes your dog’s den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm. You could further make it comfortable by lining it with a bed mat,

his toys etc.

   The primary use for a crate is house training.

   Dogs don’t like to soil their dens.

   The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, 
   like not to chew on furniture or shoes.

   Crates are safe way to transport your dog in a car.

CRATE CAUTION:

A crate isn't a magical solution.

If not used correctly a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your puppy to a crate and a long term confining when you are not at home.

Crate use should not be abused, otherwise the problem will seriously get worse. Remember confinement is ‘not’ crate training.

Don’t leave your dog in the crate too long.

A dog that’s crated day and night and cramped can become depressed or anxious.

                                                                  A Plain Crate

Puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long.

The same goes for adult dogs. Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they are supposed to.

Start your puppy with short periods in the crate, but be sure to ignore any crying and whining he does when he is in there. Remember, this is his first time and do not punish him by shouting at him.

Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house.

After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily and happily.

                                                                  Dog Bed

DOG BED:

If you have space constrain in your home, you could try giving your dog his own bed with his own special place to lie down.

Your dog probably has one or two favorite sleeping spots in your home.

Place the bed near the spot he’s familiar with.

Dogs love to snuggle and it is important to find the right size that gives your dog enough room to move around a bit.

Observe the area your dog covers when he is curled up in a sleeping position and get a bed that is slightly larger than that.

There are numerous types of beds in all shapes and sizes and material available, or you could make one yourself.

The right dog bed and the right training will together give your dog the blissful sanctuary it deserves. 

After all, who wants to sleep on the floor?

NAMING YOUR PET DOG:

If you have reached the naming step, that means you have a new dog.  Congratulations!

Finding just the right name for your new dog or puppy can be really tough. There are thousands of potential dog names out there for you to narrow down your choice. But first navigate these few do’s and don’ts for a choice.

DO’S

Choose a name that you like. You will be using it all the time, so you should enjoy the sound of it.

Pick a one or two syllable name. Longer names can be difficult for your dog to understand and  a tongue-twister pain for you to say it over and over and over.

Try out the new name for a few days and see how you like and how your dog responds.

DON’TS

Don’t use a name that sounds like a command you plan to teach your dog. It would confuse him for instance,   Fetch = ‘Fletch’,     Stay =  ‘Shay’,     Roll = ‘Roller’.

Don’t name your dog something that others may find offensive or embarrassing. This includes potential racial or cultural slurs, general insults, crass slang's or any curse words.

Don’t pick a complicated name like Baron Darcy de Knayth or Duchess Anastasia Mikhailovna,  unless you plan to actually simplify and call name like Baron and Duchess.

Also avoid choosing popular and common names. You may run into other dogs with similar name at a park or a vet’s office and it could lead to a confusion.

If you wish to give your dog a name that belongs to a human family member or friend, consider if you might offend them.

 

No matter what you name your dog, make it a name that you like and one that your dog responds well to. As long as you are pleased with the name, who really cares?  After all your dog doesn’t know the difference.

DOG COLLARS AND LEASHES:

COLLARS:

Several styles of collars and leashes are available some are made for convenience and some have a special purpose.

 Puppies are best with a soft nylon collar or a thin leather collar.

 The collar should fit snugly so it won’t slip off, but not too tight.

 You should be able to fit two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck.
 Cut off any over-long strap that the dog may chew.

 Never use ‘Choke Chains’ on young puppies.

 Use other training collars available that are much gentler on a puppy and more effective.

SLIP LEAD/CHOKE/SLIP – COLLAR.

You pass the handle end of the leash through the metal ring to form a loop and put the loop over your dog’s head. Pulling the handle tightens the loop around your dog’s neck.

CAUTION:

Only use a slip lead when a regular collar and leash aren't available.

You don’t want to risk damaging your dog’s windpipe or neck or even strangulating him.

PRONG COLLAR:

Although the prong collar looks scary, it is actually more humane.

Unlike the choke collar, prong collars have limited compassion ability, and are designed to constrict only enough to pinch the dog’s skin.

CAUTION:

If fitted improperly and used incorrectly, they can cause immense pain for the dog.

They are best used when working with a trainer with experience with prong collars. 

HEAD COLLAR:

The head collar consists of two straps, one fitting around the muzzle and the other around the dog’s head. When you connect your leash to the strap around the muzzle, it allows you to lead the dog in the direction you want.

They require very little training for the dog to get used to.

Your dog to get used to the sensation of ahead collar is to allow him to wear it without a leash connected to it every day for about two weeks.

FRONT CLIP HARNESS:

The front clip harness can be used on any age dog and are more easily accepted by the dog than the head collars.

It allows you to attach your leash in between the breast bone of the dog.

When a dog pulls on a front clip harness, two straps apply pressure to the front of the dog encouraging him not to pull.

This is my favorite product.

LEASH:

While teaching your dog not to pull when walking, use a four foot or a six foot leash.

Use whichever width and material that feels comfortable to you. Extendable leashes, such as Flexia or leashes longer than six feet in length are good for exercising dogs, but they don’t work well if you’re trying to teach your dog not to pull on leash.

                                                               Reflective collar and leash
                                         

                                                                     NIGHT WALK

                                                 If you walk your dog at night, stay safe

                                                 by being more visible. Do not wear dark

                                                clothes but which are light color. Outfit

                                                your dog with a leash and collar made

                                                of reflective material.

                                                                             ID Tags

PET  ID TAGS:

Should your pet ever become lost, a pet I.D. tag greatly increase your pet’s chances of being returned home.

Always remember that a Pet Dog ID Tag is a way of communicating important information on your dog’s behalf. If he was found by a stranger, what would you want him to say to him? There is no set standard what should be put on an ID Tag. Engrave at the back of his tag Name, Phone Number.

Some prefer the dog’s name where as some prefer to keep this private and include only the family surname. Some believe giving the dog’s name can help thieves.

If you prefer a large tag, include address or any extra information you think is worthwhile. You could include your cute, funny or meaningful messages like.

      My Mummy/Daddy loves me.

      If I’m alone, I’m lost.

      Help me home.

      Big Bark no Bite.

      Reward if found.

      I am Diabetic.

      Please call my Master.

                                   

                                                                      A Microchip close-up

MICRO CHIP:

The microchip process takes less than ten minutes. It is about the size of a grain of rice. Because of its small size, the injection is very similar to receiving a vaccination and there is no recovery time. You will also get a user name, password, and instructions on how to update your pet’s microchip registration should you ever change address.

A registered microchip helps only if a pet is brought to a shelter or Veterinary Office. Why make the rescuer make that trip.

CHOOSING A GOOD VETERINARIAN:

If you are a first time dog owner or have shifted to a new area, you may find it difficult to find a good veterinarian for your pet. This is especially true if you have a specific breed or dogs with special requirements.

I always recommend not to delay and wait till the last emergency moment to find a vet.

But plan well ahead and choose wisely. Looking for a vet, you are searching more than a medical expert. He should meet your needs as much as those of your pet.

Ask your friends and neighbors with pets for recommendations. Ask your dog’s breeder, pet groomer, pet sitter, animal shelter worker or a boarding kennel worker which veterinarian they use and ‘why’?

A first visit to a vet clinic, evaluate the facility, meet the staff and ask questions, are appointments required, the limited wait time, emergency clinic or if an emergency occurs in the night. What kind of analysis and diagnostic can be done on site or are you referred elsewhere? Vaccination protocol for puppies and adult dogs?

Ask your vet’s suggestion on spaying or neutering your pet.

Don’t be shy to ask about prices at the outset so there will be no shock surprise.

What is included in their quotes? In case of important surgeries or emergencies, do they have payment plans, and or in case of financial setbacks.

During the veterinarian’s examination keep your puppy calm and relaxed. Praise him softly during the exam and afterwards talk to him in a pleasant tone. Don’t coddle him or be over sympathetic. You will only reinforce the behavior and likely to make it worse on your next visit.

Make the veterinarian’s visit a pleasant experience for your puppy.

Take along any health records or documentations you received from the breeder or rescue organization. This will help the vet to establish an appropriate health regime.

Keep a medical diary on your pup. This is a great help and reference for future.

TOYS:

When your dog settles down with a Chew Toy he is not only exercising his jaws and cleaning his teeth he is getting a mental workout too. Dogs explore the world with their mouths, they get into a chew - like a person gets into a good book.

Pet shop toy aisles are filled with chewing toys.

A word of caution: Many toys are cheaply manufactured using PVC or vinyl  materials. Veterinarians are a worried lot with splinter lodging in a pup’s throat or the chemical phthalates on these toys depositing into your dog’s body and increasing his risk of liver, kidney and reproductive problems.

If you don’t give your pup safe and appropriate toys to play with and gnaw on, he will decide for himself what should go in his mouth, and I promise you that these choices won’t be the ones you would make.

Inspect toys carefully before you purchase them. Avoid shoddy construction that may allow small pieces or sharp fragments to break off and choke your puppy.

Avoid stuffed toys containing foam peanuts, plastic beads, and shell from nuts or beans.

Consider toys made of very hard rubber which are safer and last longer.

‘Rope’ toys are usually available in a bone shape with knotted ends and are safe.

Tennis balls make a great dog toy, but keep an eye out for any that could be chewed through, and discard them.

Rotate your dog’s toys weekly by making only a few toys available at a time. If your dog has a favorite, you may want to leave it out all the time.

                                               

 DOG BOWLS:

You may think a dog bowl is a dog bowl, but all are not equal. Different dog bowls offer different features and some are better than others.

Some of the main types of dog bowls available are:

Plastic Dog bowl

Ceramic Dog Bowl

Elevated Dog Bowl

Automatic Dog Bowl

Travel Dog Bowl

 and

Stainless steel Dog Bowls

Stainless steel remains the most popular choice for pet dishes for a number of good reasons. It’s nearly impervious stainless steel surface will not absorb smells, does not stain, and is easy to clean and disinfect. Most dogs won’t pick up or try to chew on stainless steel so your bowls stay shiny, clean and new. They’re also heavier so they’re less likely to

tip-over. They are dishwasher safe too.                                 

                       Scratch a dog and you’ll have a permanent job.

                                            Happy  Parenting.