GETTING YOUR HOME
READY FOR A NEW PUPPY:
Among
God’s creatures, the dog has
taken all the
sizes and shapes, in order
not to be
separated from the man.
When parents find out they are going
to have a child they make all sorts of preparation.
A room is set aside with a baby bed.
Walls are painted or an attractive wall-paper is pasted. Supply of formula
fills the pantry, baby bottles, pacifiers, diapers are stocked. Toys fill the
room. After a lot of homework, the baby’s doctor is selected.
A new puppy is no less than a small
child. You need to make the same preparation for a new puppy before it comes
home.
I have to confess though,
when we brought home our little Buddy, a Doberman, we were just not prepared.
At nine weeks he had lost his mother in a road accident, and who could deny or
overlook a lovable and a frisky bundle of joy giving us his hugs and kisses. That day he joined our family pack. It was
also a beginning for us to enter his fascinating world.
Buddy
Bringing Home a
new puppy is truly one of life’s joys.
Preparations and
patience are key to building a happy family.
But lack of
planning, preparation or puppy care experience, can make those early days
stressful and frustrating. And believe
me, I have been there.
WHAT TO DO AND BRING
FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY.
PUPPY- PROOF YOUR
HOME:
Before bringing
your new dog home, there are some precautions you should take and arrangements
made to help protect him from possible harm. Puppies like small children tend
to be curious. If you are not sure what changes need to be made, crawl around
on all fours to get a dog’s eye view of the place, you will be surprised of
what you may find underneath the furniture and in some nook and crannies
Here are a few
suggestions to puppy-proof your home, but it’s not exhaustive.
Do not leave electrical cords exposed.
Block off stairs or rooms you wish with a baby
gate.
Place certain human foods such as chocolates,
onions, grapes,
hard-shell nuts out of reach of your dog.
Keep all trash cans behind closed doors.
Keep all medications in a safe place.
Fence your yard and keep the gate
closed.
Put the toilet seat down.
Over a time with
your dog you will learn his tendencies to make additional changes as some dogs
are chewers, some are diggers and some are just hyper.
INDOOR PLANTS:
Protect plants from
puppies not only to prevent puppy plant poisoning, but also keep your plants
safe. Plants that are toxin can make puppies vomit, cause diarrhea or worse if
the puppy eats them.
Puppies may also
get confused seeing indoor plants, and perhaps try to help you
wee-wee-water
them.
GARDEN PLANTS:
There are all
sorts of dangers for dogs in a garden. Some plants may be toxic and harmful.
Puppies are even
more vulnerable since their main purpose in life is to explore the world.
The earlier you
start training your dog the better. Old dogs can learn new tricks, but with a
puppy, begin training as soon as you bring it home.
Teaching your dog
not to eat plants is most easily achieved when they are puppies. The key thing
is to teach a puppy not to chew and that educating part starts at home.
Once your puppy
has learnt the basics of not eating plants, you will probably decide to leave
him loose in the garden most of the time.
PUPPY PROOFING YOUR
KIDS FROM DOG BITES:
Children should be
taught to understand that dogs are not toys but living creatures who feel pain.
They need to be taught that ears aren't for pulling and eyes aren't for poking.
This rule applies to an adult dog or a puppy. Too many people assume that nice
dogs will put up with anything a kid dishes out. That’s not fair to the dog.
All too often we hear about a dog that bit a child ‘without warning’ but if the
child doesn't understand a dog’s signals and neither do the adults who should
be in charge, the dog may eventually nip.
Young puppies play
rough and have sharp teeth and claws. They are used to playing with their
litter-mates. Puppies play with their mouths and feet, they play rough. Your
puppy needs to know that teeth do not belong on human skin.
BRINGING HOME A NEW
PUP:
The key to helping
your new dog make a successful adjustment to your home is being prepared and being
patient. It can take anywhere from two days to two months for you and your pet
to adjust to each other.
Puppies or
kittens, in particular, experience a lot of stress because they are being
separated from their mom and litter-mates for the first time. A new environment
might bring them allergic reaction to their immune system.
Give them a lot of
attention during the first couple of days. Make them feel like this is their
new home.
Remember, they
have a brand new family, humans or other four-legged members as well.
On the big day
it’s difficult to be calm, you and your family is excited, and the puppy is
adorable. But remember your puppy is a tiny baby, he needs love, attention and
play-time. He also needs lots of peace and quiet, naps and potty breaks. A
young pup generally has very limited bladder and bowel control. But if he
“holds it” for several hours, don’t panic, this is instinctive.
When you get home
and ‘before’ you take your new pup into the house, take him to his ‘potty spot’
right away and let him relieve himself. This helps him to get started on his
potty training right away.
Once you take him
indoor you can let him explore his new surroundings at his own pace. Supervise
him at all times even if you have ‘puppy-proofed’ your house, he might still
surprise you.
To begin with,
initially don’t allow him to have a full access to the house. This will be
confusing and maybe a little scary too.
It is important that
you make provisions for your puppy when you are not at home. Until your puppy
is house-trained, he should not be allowed a free run of your house. Otherwise he
will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles everywhere and anywhere.
Confine your pup
to a comfortable small area that has water stain resistant floors.
Don’t get angry at
your new dog if things don’t go your way.
Have a positive
attitude and your pet will follow.
Be patient, you
may want to force the pet to get along, but that doesn't work.
They will come around eventually.
CRATE TRAINING:
Start crate
training right away, but don’t expect your puppy to like it right away.
A crate uses a
dog’s natural instincts as a den animal.
A wild dog’s den
is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger and raise a family.
The crate becomes
your dog’s den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.
You could further make it comfortable by lining it with a bed mat,
his toys etc.
The primary use
for a crate is house training.
Dogs don’t like
to soil their dens.
The crate can
limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules,
like not to chew on furniture or shoes.
Crates are safe
way to transport your dog in a car.
CRATE CAUTION:
A crate isn't a
magical solution.
If not used
correctly a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.
Be sure to
understand the difference between temporarily confining your puppy to a crate
and a long term confining when you are not at home.
Crate use should
not be abused, otherwise the problem will seriously get worse. Remember confinement
is ‘not’ crate training.
Don’t leave your
dog in the crate too long.
A dog that’s
crated day and night and cramped can become depressed or anxious.
Puppies under six
months of age shouldn't stay in crate for more than three or four hours at a
time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long.
The same goes for
adult dogs. Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they are supposed
to.
Start your puppy with
short periods in the crate, but be sure to ignore any crying and whining he
does when he is in there. Remember, this is his first time and do not punish
him by shouting at him.
Crate your dog
only until you can trust him not to destroy the house.
After that, it
should be a place he goes voluntarily and happily.
Dog Bed
DOG BED:
If you have space
constrain in your home, you could try giving your dog his own bed with his own
special place to lie down.
Your dog probably
has one or two favorite sleeping spots in your home.
Place the bed near
the spot he’s familiar with.
Dogs love to
snuggle and it is important to find the right size that gives your dog enough
room to move around a bit.
Observe the area
your dog covers when he is curled up in a sleeping position and get a bed that
is slightly larger than that.
There are numerous
types of beds in all shapes and sizes and material available, or you could make
one yourself.
The right dog bed
and the right training will together give your dog the blissful sanctuary it deserves.
After all, who wants to sleep on the floor?
NAMING YOUR PET DOG:
If you have reached the naming step,
that means you have a new dog. Congratulations!
Finding just the right name for your
new dog or puppy can be really tough. There are thousands of potential dog
names out there for you to narrow down your choice. But first navigate these
few do’s and don’ts for a choice.
DO’S
Choose a name that you like. You will
be using it all the time, so you should enjoy the sound of it.
Pick a one or two syllable name.
Longer names can be difficult for your dog to understand and a tongue-twister pain for you to say it over
and over and over.
Try out the new name for a few days
and see how you like and how your dog responds.
DON’TS
Don’t use a name that sounds like a
command you plan to teach your dog. It would confuse him for instance, Fetch =
‘Fletch’, Stay = ‘Shay’, Roll =
‘Roller’.
Don’t name your dog something that
others may find offensive or embarrassing. This includes potential racial or
cultural slurs, general insults, crass slang's or any curse words.
Don’t pick a complicated name like
Baron Darcy de Knayth or Duchess Anastasia Mikhailovna, unless you plan to
actually simplify and call name like Baron and Duchess.
Also avoid choosing popular and common
names. You may run into other dogs with similar name at a park or a vet’s
office and it could lead to a confusion.
If you wish to give your dog a name
that belongs to a human family member or friend, consider if you might offend
them.
No matter what you name your dog, make
it a name that you like and one that your dog responds well to. As long as you
are pleased with the name, who really cares?
After all your dog doesn’t know the difference.
DOG COLLARS AND LEASHES:
COLLARS:
Several styles of
collars and leashes are available some are made for convenience and some have a
special purpose.
Puppies are best
with a soft nylon collar or a thin leather collar.
The collar
should fit snugly so it won’t slip off, but not too tight.
You should be
able to fit two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck.
Cut off any over-long strap that the dog may chew.
Never use ‘Choke
Chains’ on young puppies.
Use other
training collars available that are much gentler on a puppy and more effective.
SLIP LEAD/CHOKE/SLIP – COLLAR.
You pass the
handle end of the leash through the metal ring to form a loop and put the loop
over your dog’s head. Pulling the handle tightens the loop around your dog’s
neck.
CAUTION:
Only use a slip
lead when a regular collar and leash aren't available.
You don’t want to
risk damaging your dog’s windpipe or neck or even strangulating him.
PRONG COLLAR:
Although the prong
collar looks scary, it is actually more humane.
Unlike the choke
collar, prong collars have limited compassion ability, and are designed to
constrict only enough to pinch the dog’s skin.
CAUTION:
If fitted
improperly and used incorrectly, they can cause immense pain for the dog.
They are best used
when working with a trainer with experience with prong collars.
HEAD COLLAR:
The head collar
consists of two straps, one fitting around the muzzle and the other around the
dog’s head. When you connect your leash to the strap around the muzzle, it
allows you to lead the dog in the direction you want.
They require very
little training for the dog to get used to.
Your dog to get
used to the sensation of ahead collar is to allow him to wear it without a
leash connected to it every day for about two weeks.
FRONT CLIP HARNESS:
The front clip
harness can be used on any age dog and are more easily accepted by the dog than
the head collars.
It allows you to
attach your leash in between the breast bone of the dog.
When a dog pulls
on a front clip harness, two straps apply pressure to the front of the dog
encouraging him not to pull.
This is my
favorite product.
LEASH:
While teaching your dog not to pull
when walking, use a four foot or a six foot leash.
Use whichever width and material that
feels comfortable to you. Extendable leashes, such as Flexia or leashes longer
than six feet in length are good for exercising dogs, but they don’t work well
if you’re trying to teach your dog not to pull on leash.
Reflective collar and leash
NIGHT WALK
If you walk your
dog at night, stay safe
by being more
visible. Do not wear dark
clothes but which
are light color. Outfit
your dog with a
leash and collar made
of reflective material.
ID Tags
PET ID TAGS:
Should your pet ever become lost, a
pet I.D. tag greatly increase your pet’s chances of being returned home.
Always remember that a Pet Dog ID Tag
is a way of communicating important information on your dog’s behalf. If he was
found by a stranger, what would you want him to say to him? There is no set
standard what should be put on an ID Tag. Engrave at the back of his tag Name,
Phone Number.
Some prefer the dog’s name where as
some prefer to keep this private and include only the family surname. Some
believe giving the dog’s name can help thieves.
If you prefer a large tag, include
address or any extra information you think is worthwhile. You could include
your cute, funny or meaningful messages like.
My Mummy/Daddy loves me.
If I’m alone, I’m lost.
Help me home.
Big Bark no Bite.
Reward if found.
I am Diabetic.
Please call my Master.
A Microchip close-up
MICRO CHIP:
The microchip process takes less than
ten minutes. It is about the size of a grain of rice. Because of its small
size, the injection is very similar to receiving a vaccination and there is no
recovery time. You will also get a user name, password, and instructions on how
to update your pet’s microchip registration should you ever change address.
A registered microchip helps only if a
pet is brought to a shelter or Veterinary Office. Why make the rescuer make
that trip.
CHOOSING A GOOD VETERINARIAN:
If you are a first
time dog owner or have shifted to a new area, you may find it difficult to find
a good veterinarian for your pet. This is especially true if you have a
specific breed or dogs with special requirements.
I always recommend
not to delay and wait till the last emergency moment to find a vet.
But plan well
ahead and choose wisely. Looking for a vet, you are searching more than a
medical expert. He should meet your needs as much as those of your pet.
Ask your friends
and neighbors with pets for recommendations. Ask your dog’s breeder, pet
groomer, pet sitter, animal shelter worker or a boarding kennel worker which
veterinarian they use and ‘why’?
A first visit to a
vet clinic, evaluate the facility, meet the staff and ask questions, are
appointments required, the limited wait time, emergency clinic or if an
emergency occurs in the night. What kind of analysis and diagnostic can be done
on site or are you referred elsewhere? Vaccination protocol for puppies and
adult dogs?
Ask your vet’s
suggestion on spaying or neutering your pet.
Don’t be shy to
ask about prices at the outset so there will be no shock surprise.
What is included
in their quotes? In case of important surgeries or emergencies, do they have
payment plans, and or in case of financial setbacks.
During the veterinarian’s examination
keep your puppy calm and relaxed. Praise him softly during the exam and
afterwards talk to him in a pleasant tone. Don’t coddle him or be over
sympathetic. You will only reinforce the behavior and likely to make it worse
on your next visit.
Make the veterinarian’s visit a
pleasant experience for your puppy.
Take along any health records or
documentations you received from the breeder or rescue organization. This will
help the vet to establish an appropriate health regime.
Keep a medical diary on your pup. This
is a great help and reference for future.
TOYS:
When your dog settles down with a Chew
Toy he is not only exercising his jaws and cleaning his teeth he is getting a
mental workout too. Dogs explore the world with their mouths, they get into a
chew - like a person gets into a good book.
Pet shop toy aisles are filled with
chewing toys.
A word of caution: Many toys are
cheaply manufactured using PVC or vinyl
materials. Veterinarians are a worried lot with splinter lodging in a
pup’s throat or the chemical phthalates on these toys depositing into your
dog’s body and increasing his risk of liver, kidney and reproductive problems.
If you don’t give your pup safe and
appropriate toys to play with and gnaw on, he will decide for himself what
should go in his mouth, and I promise you that these choices won’t be the ones
you would make.
Inspect toys carefully before you
purchase them. Avoid shoddy construction that may allow small pieces or sharp
fragments to break off and choke your puppy.
Avoid stuffed toys containing foam
peanuts, plastic beads, and shell from nuts or beans.
Consider toys made of very hard rubber
which are safer and last longer.
‘Rope’ toys are usually available in a
bone shape with knotted ends and are safe.
Tennis balls make a great dog toy, but
keep an eye out for any that could be chewed through, and discard them.
Rotate your dog’s toys weekly by
making only a few toys available at a time. If your dog has a favorite, you may
want to leave it out all the time.
DOG BOWLS:
You may think a dog bowl is a dog
bowl, but all are not equal. Different dog bowls offer different features and
some are better than others.
Some of the main types of dog bowls
available are:
Plastic Dog bowl
Ceramic Dog Bowl
Elevated Dog Bowl
Automatic Dog Bowl
Travel Dog Bowl
and
Stainless steel Dog Bowls
Stainless steel remains the most
popular choice for pet dishes for a number of good reasons. It’s nearly
impervious stainless steel surface will not absorb smells, does not stain, and
is easy to clean and disinfect. Most dogs won’t pick up or try to chew on
stainless steel so your bowls stay shiny, clean and new. They’re also heavier
so they’re less likely to
tip-over. They are dishwasher safe
too.
Scratch a dog and you’ll have a permanent job.
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