PET MEDICAL EMERGENCY.

Recently I came across a picture posted on a social media site of a pet dog standing in a corner pressing his head against the wall. The caption read,     ‘Mr. Grumpy is not talking to me’. The owner felt it was cute and funny, but in reality the dog had a serious life threatening problem (See No. 15 Head Pressing). Lucky for Mr. Grumpy, his vet has started treating him.

Unfortunately, sometimes we are not aware of many things about our pets. Your dog may need emergency care because of severe trauma caused by an accident or fall, choking, heatstroke, an insect sting, household poisoning or other life threatening situation.     

When a medical emergency befalls our furry friends, pet parents may find it difficult to make rational decisions, especially if something occurs during the middle of the night.  That’s why it’s crucial to have an emergency plan in place before you need it.

While no one can be prepared for all emergencies, there are some simple guidelines and clinical signs that all pet owners can follow and look for to help their pet loved ones. 

Below is a list of 21 medical emergency situations you may face sometimes with your pet dog. Who knows, it just may save your pet’s life?

                                 Medical Emergency and Care:   

                                 
                                       
                                 1.  Abscess.
                                 2.  Bandaging.
                                 3.  Bee Sting and Insect Bites.
                                 4.  Bleeding
                                 5.  Burns.           
                                 6.  Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR).
                                 7.  Chemical Injuries.
                                 8.  Choking.
                                 9.  Dehydration.
                                10. Diarrhea and Vomiting.
                                11. Drowning and Near Drowning.
                                12. Electrocution.
                                13. Fainting (Syncope).
                                14. Fractures.
                                15. Head Pressing.
                                16. Hyperthermia (Heat Stroke)
                                17. Nose Bleed (Epistaxis).
                                18. Paralysis.
                                19. Seizures (Epilepsy).
                                20. Snake Bites.
                                21. Wounds.


                              

1… ABSCESS

Pets have a way of getting into trouble with one another. And when the seemingly inevitable altercations result, fangs and fur can fly. Unfortunately, a great many of these cases end in abscesses. An abscess is defined as a sac or lump that contain pus. Abscesses are generally caused by bacteria, parasites, or foreign material under the skin.

 A bite-wound abscess forms when the body can’t remove infection.

But bite wounds are only one cause of abscesses. They can form in any part of the body and can result from bacterial infections of tooth roots and anal glands, for example. Once an abscess forms, it’s very difficult for the body to remove the material and fight the infection by itself. 

Indeed, an untreated abscess can sometimes lead to deeper and more widespread infection; therefore, pets should be treated by a veterinarian as soon as the possibility of an abscess is identified.

Home care for an abscess is aimed at helping the body's immune system fight off the infection. This may include the application of warm compresses with Epsom salts for about 5-10 minutes 3- 4 times per day to help increase the flow of blood to the area. This in turn will increase the white blood cell population within the abscess, to better fight the infection.

If the abscess has ruptured, thorough cleaning is recommended. Often the wound is left open to drain during the healing process. During healing, it is imperative that your dog does not lick or chew at the abscess.

Owners should familiarize themselves with the causes and signs of abscesses, so that they can get treatment for their affected dogs as quickly as possible.

                                                                                 Bandaging... 

2… BANDAGING:

Hopefully you won’t need this information, but if you should, here’s some tips on how to bandage your dog correctly. (See Video Below)

We use bandages for several reasons: to protect wounds from the environment, protect the environment from wounds, and to discourage a pet from licking or irritating a wound. Bandages may be applied as support for strains or sprains or to prevent motion. Proper applicatio n is important – an improperly applied or too-tight bandage can cause decreased blood flow and potential loss of the limb.

The process of bandaging begins with careful cleaning of the wound. All dried blood, dirt, and debris should be washed away using mild soap and lots of water. Hair should be clipped away so that it cannot lie in the wound. If possible, the area should be patted dry. 

 There should always be a first aid kit available, whether you are at home or spending time outside in a trip or vacation. The most important (and must-haves) for your doggy first aid kit are: antiseptic, sterile pads, adhesive bandages or tape, rolls of cotton and gauze, and household sticky tape.

 In order to make a good bandage for your dog, follow these easy steps:

• First, you have to clean and disinfect the wound of your dog
• Next, put an absorbent pad on the wound. The pad should be sterilized and nonstick.
• Over the pad, wrap a gauze bandage with one-third of the bandage being exposed on each wrap. Also, wrap some of your dog’s fur on both sides of the pad.
• Next, wrap a layer of adhesive tape / bandage over the gauge bandage.
• Test the right pressure by placing two fingers under the bandaging, and then remove them. Keep wrapping the adhesive material over the sides of the gauze that is underlying.
• Keep the pressure balanced by placing and removing your fingers from time to time as you cover the gauze bandaging with adhesive tape.
• Use a strip of sticky tape to connect the fur and the bandage. This will help in keeping the bandage secured from slipping.
• Dogs can experience different kinds of injuries, and at times, the above steps aren’t enough. Here are additional things that you need to do for extra care depending on the kind of injury:
• For leg wounds, wrap roll cotton over the gauze pad, then wrap stretch gauze, and finish with adhesive tape or bandage.
• For tail wounds, do the above mentioned steps, but use long materials and secure the bandage on your dog’s tail in case it might fall off from wagging.
• For torso wounds, wrap a towel around the torso, or a pillow case. Use pins on the side (opposite of the wound) to secure the bandage.
• Alternative materials you can use, in case you do not have the above materials, are clean sheets, towel strips, and even old clean clothing cut to fit your dog’s size. Household paper products can be used for substitute pads, and they can have ointment applied to them before placing them on the wound.
• In addition, keep your dog’s bandage secured at all times, and make sure the bandage is just right – not too loose or too tight for your buddy. Keep them clean as well, and if they get dirty, change them immediately.
• Be sure to comfort and praise the dog liberally during the bandaging process, so he doesn’t come to see it as an ordeal to be dreaded.

One word of caution:

Bandages and splints do not help fractures of the humerus (upper arm bone) or femur (thigh bone). They can even cause more damage. If you suspect that your pet has a fractured upper thigh bone or upper arm bone, do not use a bandage or splint. Try to keep your pet as quiet and confined as possible and contact your veterinarian.

Personally, if you suspect your dog has a broken bone anywhere, not just in the locations explained above, let your vet handle it. Then take care of proper bandaging, knowing the dog will heal properly.
                                                        Bandaging a wound...click

                                                                         Bee Sting...

3… BEE STING/INSECT BITE:

Dogs are very curious animals – you’ll often see them exploring unusual places. They tend to sniff below hedges, under the trash bins, and in nooks and crannies of our sheds and porches. Many of them love to dig in the dirt. Unfortunately, these areas are home to many insects that wouldn't hesitate to bite unsuspecting, curious visitors. 
Eventually, this adventuresome behavior will lead to your dog getting bitten by some type of insect.

Although insect bites are normally not as alarming as many other conditions, it is important to bear in mind that some bites can cause numerous reactions and allergies to your dog. That’s why it’s critical for dog owners to understand the kinds of bites and the various symptoms they might display in our pets.

Some insect bites are extremely irritating and painful to dogs. Others can be very dangerous. Below are some of the safe and effective methods you can try at home to treat insect bites.

• Scrape out the stinger, moving parallel to the skin surface, to reduce the chance of pumping more venom into the dog's skin. You can use anything such as a finger nail, twig, credit card, or any stiff-edged object to remove the stinger. That approach generally pulls out the stinger without squeezing the venom sack. Do not grab the stinger with tweezers or fingers.
• Bathe the stung area with a solution of baking soda and water.
• Immediately apply ice packs to reduce swelling (lining the pack with cloth or a thin towel). Do this frequently for 5 minutes at a time.
• One way to treat bee stings is to give the dog Benadryl (diphenhydramine) by mouth. Typical dosages: for cats and dogs under 30 pounds, give 10 mg...dogs 30 to 50 pounds, give 25 mg...dogs over 50 pounds, give 50 mg. Use only the plain Benadryl formula.
• A swollen muzzle often indicates a bee sting.

A bee expert advises that while Benadryl will buy some time, it will not stop the anaphylactic shock being represented by the breathing problems. Emergency symptoms require veterinary care.

Stings and bites can cause severe reactions. If there is major swelling, or the animal seems disoriented, sick or has trouble moving or breathing, go to the vet immediately. Even if your pet seems fine, watch him carefully for 24 hours.

Dogs with short and thin fur are more prone to spider bites and scorpion stings. The venom can be very dangerous.

In the case of insect bite irritation, spreading on some calamine lotion, milk of magnesia, or hydrocortisone cream can be helpful in relieving irritation. Applying regular or colloidal oatmeal on the bitten area can also be used as a natural alternative.

Another means involves mixing a teaspoon of Epsom salt in two cups of warm water, and then boiling it. Bathe the dog with this mixture to treat itchy and irritated paws and skin.

Keep any unused solution in the refrigerator to preserve its freshness. And, for the hot spots on your pup’s skin, try saturating a cotton ball with witch hazel and then applying it to the affected area for several days.

 Observe your dog closely after the sting incident to ensure an allergic reaction doesn’t develop. If several days pass and the swelling doesn't go down, notify your veterinarian.

4… BLEEDING:

In an emergency situation it is important to try to remain calm. 
Always phone your vet before attending in order to check which surgery to go to. 
When calling your vet have a pen and paper ready to write down any instructions or directions.  Out of hours you may need to attend a different clinic to your regular daytime one

Bleeding can be either external or internal.

External bleeding is bleeding coming from a skin wound. This wound is obvious, unlike internal bleeding which is difficult to detect and requires the services of a veterinarian. A blood loss of as little as two teaspoons per pound of body weight is enough to cause a dog to go into shock. Every dog owner should know how to control or stop bleeding, even if it's just long enough to get the dog to the vet.

 External Bleeding

Listed below, in order of preference, are some techniques to stop or control external bleeding in dogs.

Direct Pressure:

Place a compress of clean cloth or gauze directly over the wound, applying firm but gentle pressure, and allow it to clot. Do not disturb the clots. If blood soaks through the compress, do not remove it. Instead, place a fresh compress on top of the old one and continue to apply pressure. If there are other injuries that need to be addressed, tie the compress in place with bandages or gauze. If there are no compress materials available, a bare hand or finger will work.

Direct,  gentle pressure is the method most preferred for stopping external bleeding.

Elevation:
If a wound on the leg or foot is bleeding severely, gently elevate the leg until the wound is above the heart. This allows gravity to reduce blood pressure near the wound which will slow the bleeding. Elevation works best in bigger dogs with long legs because there is a longer distance between the injury and the heart. Elevation should be used in conjunction with direct pressure with compresses for maximum effectiveness.

Pressure on Artery.

If bleeding continues after applying direct pressure and elevation, you will need to apply pressure to the artery supplying blood to the injury. If the injury is on the front leg, apply pressure to the brachial artery inside the upper front leg. If the injury is to a back leg, apply pressure to the femoral artery in the groin and if the injury is to the tail, apply pressure to the caudal artery at the base of the tail. Continue applying direct pressure as you transport the dog to the veterinarian.

Pressure Above and Below Wound:
Applying pressure above the wound will help control arterial bleeding and pressure below the wound will help control bleeding from the veins. This should be used in conjunction with direct pressure.

Tourniquet:

Is a device for stopping the flow of blood through a vein or artery, typically by compressing a limb with a cord or tight bandage.

A tourniquet is dangerous and should only be used only if the injury is located on the tail or a leg and the dog would otherwise die. A two inch or wider piece of cloth is wrapped around the limb twice and knotted. A short stick or something similar, such as an ink pen, should also be tied into the knot. Use the stick to tighten the tourniquet until the bleeding stops. Tie the stick to hold it in place and write down the time (this is not a time to rely on your memory). Every twenty minutes release the tourniquet for fifteen or twenty seconds before tying it down again.

A tourniquet should be used only as a last-ditch effort as its use will probably result in either a disability or amputation of the affected limb.

Internal Bleeding:

Internal bleeding is one of the most serious consequences of trauma. Usually, the bleeding results from obvious injuries that require rapid medical attention. Internal bleeding may also occur after a less severe trauma or be delayed by hours or days. Some internal bleeding due to trauma stops on its own. If the bleeding continues or is severe, surgery is required to correct it.

Almost any organ or blood vessel can be damaged by trauma and cause internal bleeding. 
The most serious sources of internal bleeding due to trauma are:

Head trauma with internal bleeding (intracranial hemorrhage)

Bleeding around the lungs (hemothorax)

Bleeding around the heart (hemopericardium and cardiac tamponade)

Tears in the large blood vessels near the center of the body (aorta, superior and inferior vena cava, and their major branches)

Internal bleeding is a life-threatening condition,. Internal bleeding occurs inside the body and will not be seen. In internal bleeding, blood pools in the stomach or chest but does not result in blood in the stool or bleeding from the rectum. There are, however, some external signs of internal bleeding:

    ·         The pet is pale (check the gums). 

    ·         The pet is cool on the legs, ears, or tail. 

    ·         The pet is coughing up blood.

    ·         The pet is unusually subdued. 

 Road Traffic Accidents 
and other Traumatic Injuries. If you think your dog has been hit by a car, poisoning trauma or was involved in a dangerous mishap, have him checked as soon as possible. Internal bleeding can occur without showing any outward signs initially. 

If you suspect your dog has a broken leg or has a head injury, you should carefully slide him onto a towel or blanket. Use this as a stretcher for transportation if nothing else is around and time is short.

How to safely bring your dog to the clinic in case of trauma:

Treat the dog as gently as possible

• Treatment that is not gentle might worsen internal bleeding, damage surrounding tissues and cause further complications.
• Try to make the dog feel most comfortable, encourage him to lie down and gently roll him to his side.
• If he resists or has difficulty breathing while on his side, he might have a chest or lung injury.  In such a case it is best to let the dog choose his position.

 Minimize Mobility

Small dogs may be carried in a bag or a cat restrainer. 
Large dogs are best transferred to the car with a blanket. Put the dog in the center of a blanket; roll the edges to get a good grip, pick all 4 corners and carry him gently (requires 2 people).
In the car, either tie him to the seat or have someone sit next to it.

If the dog seems paralyzed or unable to get up, and there's suspected back injury, it is mandatory to immobilize him to prevent further damage to the nerves. 
Get a strong flat surface (a wide shelf, wooden plank or an ironing board). 
While the dog is lying on his side, hold him by the loose skin at the back of his neck and in his lower back, and gently slide him on to the board. 
Keep his back and neck straight, and tie or tape him to the board.
If this attempt makes your dog struggle put him on a blanket as described above.

Temporary Treatment:

  1) Quickly lay him on his back

  2) Manually hold his back legs up in the air to get the oxygenated blood to his brain at the earliest. 

Shock Stabilization Treatment:

  1) Find a board or a plank, strong enough to take his weight and lay him on it.

      Always lie him on right hand side in case his shock deteriorates and requires CPR.

  2) Wrap him in a blanket/towel, securing him to the board with it.

  3) Place cushion/rolled up jacket and put under the board, directly under his hind legs.

  4) Tilt him sufficiently for the blood to be encouraged to flow toward his brain.

  5) Phone your vet immediately to meet you at the surgery.

  6) The board will act like a stretcher for carrying him to and from the car & it will allow you to tilt          his body sufficiently to aid the blood flow to his head.

Without the board, his body would just sag in the middle and not be physically tilted, unlike a towel/cloth stretcher

Vomit:

 If the dog vomits or appears as if he might vomit, put his head under the level of his heart, so the vomit flows freely out of his mouth and not into the trachea and lungs. 

Note that dogs with head injuries are likely to vomit, even when unconscious.

Cover the dog with a blanket   Covering with a blanket has a soothing effect and more importantly – it prevents heat loss. Drive carefully to the vet! 5… BURNS:

The thought of an animal suffering a scald or burn is hard to take, but with a little knowledge you can be prepared to take the proper course of action–and to avoid doing things that can hurt your pet even more.

 First thing to do: examine the extent of the burn. Look under the fur. If the skin is intact, apply or submerge in cold water. Never use ice.

Burns are categorized on the depth of skin damage:

First degree burns will redden the skin, but all the skin layers are intact. Hair may be singed or missing. There will be some minor pain or discomfort.

Second degree burns are characterized by blisters in addition to the redness, which indicates that several layers of the skin have been damaged. There is also more pain.

Third degree burns go through the full thickness of the skin and damage the tissue underneath. The skin on the edges may be blackened.

First- and Second- Degree Burns:

• Submerge or rinse with cold water or apply a clean cloth soaked in cold water.
• If blisters are closed, apply a clean, dry bandage.
• If blisters are open, do not cover.
• Do not break blisters open. Do not peel skin.
• Let heal naturally.
• If blister is large or does not heal, consult your veterinarian.

• Third-degree Burns:

• Do not move the animal unless necessary.
• Do not immerse in cold water.
• Treat for shock (cover animal to retain body heat).
• Apply a clean, thick, dry dressing (don’t wrap, just cover)
• Do not remove burned skin or charred material.

Seek veterinary attention immediately.


                                                            
                                                                        Dog CPR - click...

6… CARDIOPULMONARY RESUSCITATION (CPR):

CPR stands for 'cardiopulmonary resuscitation' and is a life-saving procedure used to help dogs that have stopped breathing and/or have no heartbeat. When a dog stops breathing, the oxygen levels in its bloodstream fall rapidly, and without oxygen vital organs such as the brain, liver, and kidneys, rapidly fail. Brain damage occurs within as little as 3 - 4 minutes of respiratory failure, so it’s crucial to act swiftly.

Do you know what to do if your dog stops breathing? Knowing a few emergency procedures if your dog is choking, or having difficulty breathing, could save your dog's life because you may not have time to get to a vet.

The signs that indicate the need for CPR include unconsciousness, lack of arousal, lack of physical movement, or eye blinking. These symptoms can occur from drowning, choking, electrical shock, or a number of other situations.

The key to canine CPR is remembering the ABCs: 
   Airway, 
   Breathing, and 
   Cardiac compression.

To locate the heart, lay the dog on its side (see No.1 below), swing its front elbow back to the point where it meets the chest wall. That point is the third to fifth intercostal space, which is where the heart lies.

1…Lay the dog on a flat surface and extend the head back to create an airway. (Current practices recommend laying the dog on his/her right side (heart facing up), however the  latest recommended guidelines state that either the left or right lateral recumbency are acceptable).

2…Open the jaws to check for obstructions, and if any exist and are not easily removed, try to dislodge the object.

Look in the mouth and remove any saliva or vomitus. If it is too dark to see into the mouth, sweep your finger deep into the mouth and into the throat to remove any vomit or foreign body. Be aware of a hard, smooth, bone-like structure deep in the throat, which is likely to be the hyoid apparatus (Adam's apple). Serious injury could result if you pull on the hyoid apparatus.

3…Cup your hands around the muzzle of the dog's mouth so that only the nostrils are clear. Blow air into the nostrils with five or six quick breaths, again, depending on the size of the dog. Small dogs and puppies and require short and shallow breaths. Larger dogs need longer and deeper breaths. Continue the quick breaths at a rate of one breath every three seconds or 20 breaths per minute.

4…Check for a heartbeat by using your finger on the inside of the thigh, just above the knee. If you don't feel a pulse, put your hand over the dog's chest cavity where the elbow touches the middle of the chest. If you still don't find a pulse, have one person continue breathing into the nostrils (mouth to snout), while another gives chest compressions / cardiac massage. If you are alone, do the compression and mouth-to-snout ventilation yourself.

5…Give the dog chest compressions (cardiac massage) by placing both hands palms down on the chest cavity of the dog. For most dogs, chest compressions can be performed on the widest part of the chest while the dog is lying on his side.

6…Use the heel of your hand(s) to push down for 30 quick compressions followed by 2 breaths of air (ventilation) and then check to see if consciousness has been restored. If consciousness has not been restored, continue the compressions in cycles of 100 to 120 chest compressions per minute (the same rhythm administered for people).

7…Perform CPR in 2-minute cycles checking to see if breathing and consciousness has been restored. Ideally, CPR is performed while on route to emergency veterinarian care. If this is not possible, contact a veterinarian once the dog has started breathing.

A...For dogs with keel-shaped chests (i.e. deep, narrow chests) in breeds such as greyhounds push down closer to the dog's armpit, directly over the heart.

B…For dogs with barrel-chested dogs like English bulldogs lay the dog on its back and compress on the sternum (directly over the heart), like people.

C…For smaller dogs (and cats) chest-compressions scan be done with one hand wrapped around the sternum, encircling the heart or two-handed on the ribs.

D…For large dogs, place your hands on top of each other. For small dogs or puppies, place one hand or thumb on the chest.



                                                               Chemical burns...

7… CHEMICAL INJURIES:

Chemical injuries to tissue are caused by contact with harmful chemicals such as lye, acids, and strong cleaning supplies.  Also called chemical burns, they can be similar to thermal (heat) burns and treatment can be complex and last many weeks. Prompt removal of the chemical agent and rapid veterinary medical attention can help minimize the injury and speed healing

• What to Do:
• Wash the contaminated area with large volumes of tepid flowing water for at least 15 minutes.  In the case of dry chemicals, brush them away carefully, taking care to protect the eyes, nose, and mouth of both you and your pet.
• If the chemical is in the eye, flush the eye with large volumes of water or contact lens saline  for 15 minutes.
• Seek veterinary attention as soon as possible.   
• Avoid being bitten by using a muzzle on your pet if you think there is a risk of being bitten.
•    Make sure the area is well ventilated as some chemicals can release strong fumes.

What NOT to Do

   o   Do not apply neutralizing agents to the skin or eyes. They can cause a chemical reaction that                produces heat and cause further injury to tissues.  

   o   Do not immerse your pet in non-flowing water if a dry chemical has spilled on him or her.                  These dry chemicals are usually activated by water. The water must be flowing in order to                   rinse the chemical away.

   o   Pure water can be quite irritating to the eyes and raw skin. It is much more comfortable for                  your pet if you use saline: simply dissolve 2 teaspoons of table salt in one quart of water                      (metric: 9 grams of salt in 1 liter of water).

8… CHOKING:

Dogs use their mouths to explore the world, and, fortunately, their anatomy includes safeguards that make choking rare. But it isn't impossible for a dog to experience choking, and it’s important that you be able to distinguish between a choking dog and a dog dealing with illness or another issue.

In a life-threatening emergency there may not be time to contact a vet, in which case you must administer first-aid yourself.  However, if the dog is uncomfortable but not in immediate danger, your better option is to keep it calm and seek veterinary advice.

You'll want to make absolutely sure your dog really is choking before attempting to dislodge any object from its throat—any rescue attempts risk causing injury to your dog and increase your risk of getting inadvertently bitten.

Choking occurs when dog swallows food, bone, a fragment of a toy or another object incorrectly and the object gets stuck in the trachea. A dog that is truly choking will have difficulty inhaling as well as exhaling.

What sounds like choking actually may be a symptom of another condition. 
Difficulty breathing or choking noises can also occur from conditions such as kennel cough or vomiting. (Note that these conditions may be serious and also require prompt medical attention.)

Symptoms of choking include:

   §  Lips or tongue turning blue from a lack of oxygen

   §  Pawing at the mouth

   §  Difficulty breathing

   §  General agitation

Whether breathing difficulties occur from choking or another condition, call a veterinarian immediately. If your dog can still partially breathe, your best solution is to focus your efforts on getting it to a veterinarian right away.

Attempt to remove the object

• When dealing with any pet emergency, stay calm but move quickly and deliberately. Your dog may be able to sense your panic, and this will only upset it more.
• First, carefully open your dog's mouth and see if you can see a foreign object. Be very cautious, a choking dog may panic and reflexively bite.
• If you can see a foreign object, and you're sure the dog won't bite, sweep your fingers from the side of the dog's throat to the center to try to remove the object. You can also use tweezers or a small pair of pliers. Always use caution not to push an object further down the dog's throat.
• Don't reach down your dog's throat and pull at objects that you can't identify; dogs have small bones inside their throats that can be damaged if you pull on them.

 Heimlich Method:

If you can't remove the foreign object manually, try to raise your dog's rear legs above its head. If you have a small dog, hold it with its head facing down, with its back against your stomach. In the case of a larger dog, bend over behind it and lift its rear legs. Sometimes this position alone will help dislodge the object.

If the object still hasn't come free, use a modified version of the Heimlich maneuver to try and dislodge the object. The objective: to sharply push air out of the lungs and push the object forward out of the throat.
  
                                                            Choking - click...   

Take your dog to the vet. 

   ü  Even if you manage to dislodge an object, it is a good idea to get your pet to the vet to be                    checked for any further problems or injuries.

  ü  Keep your pet calm and get your dog to the vet as quickly and as safely as possible.

  ü  Pay close attention to your dog to make sure it is able to maintain normal breathing.

9… DEHYDRATION:

Dehydration in dogs, which occurs due to an excessive loss of body fluids, is a common and dangerous condition that needs to be immediately addressed. If left untreated, dehydration can lead to serious consequences, including organ failure and death.  For this reason, pet parents should learn to recognize the signs of dehydration and how to respond to it with proper dog first aid and veterinary attention.

            
    Dehydration Causes:

• Vomiting.
• Diarrhea.
• Fever.Not enough intake of food or water.
• Overexposure to heat.

An ill dog is at high danger of dehydration, since the illness can cause dog diarrhea, dog vomiting, fever and a lack of desire to eat and drink.  Along with a loss of water, dehydration also typically involves a loss of electrolytes - minerals such as sodium, chloride and potassium.
     
    Signs of Dehydration in Dogs Include: 

• Lack of skin elasticity.
• Dry, sticky gums.
• Sunken eyes.
• Too much or too little urination.
• Lethargy.
• Delay in capillary refill time (the time it takes for your dog's gum to return to its normal color after you press your finger against it).

Symptoms of Dog Dehydration:

Dogs can lose a significant amount of fluid from normal daily activities such as panting (dog's do not have sweat glands to keep them cool, so they pant), elimination, breathing, and simple evaporation through body surfaces. They can also lose water through not-so-normal conditions such as over-heating due to exposure to extreme heat, diarrhea, fever, and vomiting. Symptoms of a dehydrated dog include: sunken, dry eyes, and dry mouth, gums, and nose. The skin also loses elasticity.

Another symptom is "delayed capillary refill time." 
Press your finger against your dog's gums until they turn white, then remove it. Your dog's gums should return to pink immediately. If it takes up to 3 seconds or more for the gums to regain their color, your dog is dehydrated.

What to Do:

If moderate or severe dehydration, seek veterinary attention.  

 Do the skin turgor test - grasp the skin on the back of the hand, lower arm, or abdomen between two fingers so that it is tented up.  The skin is held up for a few seconds then released. Skin with normal tugor snaps back rapidly to its normal position.  Skin with decreased tugor remains elevated and returns slowly to its normal position, in this case your pet may be moderately to severely dehydrated and may be in critical condition. Seek vet attention.

The skin turgor test is not always accurate and several factors such as age, weight loss and condition of the skin can give misleading results. A veterinary professional can help you determine how dehydrated your pet is, what the cause may be, and the best course of treatment.


                                                            Canine skin Tugor test - click...

                                   

If dehydration is mild and the pet is not vomiting, give frequent, small amounts of water by mouth; that means in the range of 1 tsp. for a cat or small dog to 1 tbsp. to 1/4 cup for a medium to large dog every few hours.

If your pet is lethargic, in pain, or has not eaten for 24 hours, seek veterinary attention.

What NOT to Do

  o   Do not allow your pet to have immediate free access to large amounts of water or other liquid.  

  o   Do not feed your pet any dry food until directed to do so by a veterinary professional.

Prevention:

The best treatment for dehydration in dogs is prevention. Make sure that there is always plenty of fresh water available for your dog to drink and that he is indeed drinking it. If your dog seems reluctant to drink water or seems to drink too little, then mix unflavored Pedialyte into your dog’s drinking water to help replace the nutrients.

Keep in mind however, that any dehydration is serious for your dog and you must seek professional medical treatment for your dog in order to determine and treat the cause of the dehydration as well as the dehydration itself.

10… DIARRHEA AND VOMITING:

Vomiting and diarrhea are very common in dogs and cats.  Such digestive upset can range from mild discomfort to serious life-threatening illness.  To understand the signs of vomiting and diarrhea, it is helpful to have an idea of how the digestive system works in general.

Overview:

Loosely translated, the term gastroenteritis means an upset or inflamed stomach and intestines. As in people, gastroenteritis in pets can be caused by a multitude of underlying problems ranging from minor to serious and life threatening.

Vomiting usually indicates irritation in the stomach and upper small intestine, while diarrhea can mean irritation anywhere along the intestinal tract. But these are mere generalizations, of course.

Symptoms and Identification

You can tell a lot about the nature of the problem from the character of the vomiting or diarrhea. For example:

   Ø  Foreign material such as bones, sticks, leaves, grass, toys or garbage contents may be seen in vomited material when dogs and cats eat indiscriminately. Vomitus that contains dark, gritty material that looks like coffee grounds can mean irritation or bleeding in the stomach.

   Ø  Feces that are dark or look like tar can indicate bleeding in the stomach or high up in the intestines. The blood is digested before it’s passed, which is why it takes on such a dark color.

   Ø  Diarrhea that is watery or covered with mucus typically means a problem in the colon, which is the organ responsible for absorbing excess moisture from the stool.

   Ø  Streaks of red, undigested blood in feces tends to indicate a problem lower down in the digestive tract, typically the colon or rectum.

Because your pet can’t talk, your veterinarian counts on you for important information, like the signs noted above. Watch your pet’s gastrointestinal activity so you can describe the amount, frequency, and appearance of the vomiting or diarrhea. If possible, take a sample of the material to show your veterinarian. Your vet will also need to know whether your pet is drinking normal amounts of water, has a normal appetite, and is otherwise acting okay.

After doing a physical exam, the vet may need to run some diagnostic tests. These may include:    

• Blood work to look for organ problems like kidney disease.
•   Fecal testing to check for intestinal parasites or other abnormalities (checking several samples is often needed).
•   Abdominal X-rays to look for masses, foreign bodies, or signs of obstruction.
•    Abdominal ultrasound examination to look closer at the intestines and other abdominal organs.

              Depending on the results of these tests, more specific diagnostic tests may be recommended.
.

Treatment

Cases of mild vomiting and/or diarrhea typically respond well to TLC and basic home care.

 Withholding food for 24 hours to allow the gastrointestinal tract to rest may be recommended. If you have a young puppy or kitten or a pet that already has another medical problem, ask your veterinarian if it is safe to withhold food. If the signs resolve, your pet can then be started on small amounts of bland, highly digestible food, such as boiled chicken and rice, or a prescription intestinal diet.

If parasites are the problem, medication can generally be prescribed to treat the condition.

If gastroenteritis has been severe, long lasting, or accompanied by other signs of illness your vet may give fluids intravenously or under the skin to protect against dehydration. Medications are sometimes prescribed to calm the gastrointestinal tract and decrease the urge to vomit. 
In some cases, hospitalization for continued treatment and observation is recommended. 
If the underlying problem can’t be determined, your vet may recommend supportive treatment (like fluids and medications) to help your pet through the illness and give the body a chance to heal.

Unfortunately, not all cases of vomiting or diarrhea are simple and easy to treat. These conditions can sometimes be a sign of more serious problems, such as liver or kidney failure, diabetes, inflammation of the pancreas, severe viral infection, or allergic bowel disease.
 Some types of cancer can also cause vomiting and diarrhea, especially if a tumor pinches off the bowel and causes intestinal obstruction or damages the structures of the stomach or intestines.

Intestinal obstruction can be associated with intense pain, vomiting, and straining to defecate but passing only small amounts of runny stool, often with blood. 
This is a true emergency that requires immediate surgery to remove the blockage before the bowel ruptures or is irreparably damaged.

When in doubt, call your veterinarian if you notice vomiting or diarrhea in your pet.


                                                                              Drowning/Near Drowning...

11… DROWNING (NEAR DROWNING)

Drowning is death within 24 hours from suffocation by submersion in a liquid, normally fresh water or sea water. 

Near drowning is survival for more than 24 hours (even if temporary) from suffocation by submersion.

Symptoms and Types: 

    ·         Bluish skin and gums.

    ·         Coughing with clear to frothy red sputum (spit-up).

    ·         Cessation of breathing.

    ·         Difficulty breathing.

    ·         Crackling sound from the chest.

    ·         Vomiting.

    ·         Semi-conscious and dazed to comatose.

    ·         Increased or decreased heart rate.

    ·         The heart may cease to beat.

Causes 

    ·         Owner negligence.

    ·         Inadequate safety precautions.

    ·         Young, inexperienced dog (less than four months of age).

    ·         Dog was in or near water at the time of a seizure.

    ·         Following head trauma.

    ·         Rapid drop in blood sugar, abnormal heart beat rhythm, or fainting episode while in body of               water place dogs at higher risk of drowning.

Many owners believe that their pets inherently know how to swim.

However, this is not the case for many dogs and cats. Aside from not knowing how to swim, a pet that falls into a body of water can drown or nearly drown as a result of not being able to get out. Swimming pools and hot tubs usually only have stairs or ladders at each end, and pets do not know to swim to the steps to get out. Rather, a pet may swim aimlessly around the pool, tire out and drown from exhaustion.

Some Pets are at a Higher Risk for Drowning

Pets with certain medical conditions may be more prone to water accidents. Examples of the conditions that can increase the risk of water accidents include seizures, dementia, arthritis, irregular heart rhythm and blindness. If your pet has any of these conditions, it should never be left unattended near any body of water. Even if your pet is healthy, it can accidentally fall into a pool or body of water while running or playing. If you take your dog boating, consider providing it with a life jacket. These are available for purchase at many pet stores.

Even if Your Pet is Rescued, Near-Drowning Can be Fatal for Dogs and Cats

If your pet falls into a body of water, struggles and is rescued, it may still suffer some after-effects of a near drowning. 
In just a matter of minutes or even seconds, a pet can inhale a large amount of water into its lungs. You may notice coughing, difficulty breathing, weakness, fluid coming from the mouth or nose, distress or anxiety. These signs can range from mild to severe. 
A pet may become very cold after inhaling water and have difficulty regulating its body temperature. Another common condition that can occur after a near-drowning is pneumonia.

Secondary drowning, which can be fatal, can occur up to three days after a near-drowning experience. 
After initially appearing to be normal, pets suffering from secondary drowning become lethargic, weak, may turn purple or blue, cough and struggle to breathe. 
Signs can progress very rapidly. Death can occur due to respiratory distress and lack of oxygen. A pet that is experiencing secondary drowning may act very normally after nearly drowning, which could mislead owners to believe that their pet is fine and does not need to be evaluated by a veterinarian.

What Should a Pet Owner Do if Your Pet Nearly Drowns?

If your pet has experienced a near-drowning episode, you should immediately take him to the nearest veterinary clinic for evaluation. Ideally your pet should have x-rays completed and be kept under observation for a minimum of 24 hours, with close attention to heart and respiratory rates and breathing characteristics. Diuretics can aid in the elimination of water from the lungs. Antibiotics may be started to help prevent pneumonia. Pets who seem to be more ill may need to receive IV fluids and oxygen.

Always keep a close eye on pets when near bodies of water. Don’t assume that its animal instincts will keep it from drowning as, sadly, drowning can occur. If your pet has had a near-drowning experience, be sure to have it seen by your veterinarian. This can be a serious medical issue that may progress rapidly even when no signs of a problem are immediately apparent.

                                                   Dangerous Electrical Wires...

12… ELECTROCUTION:

The golden rule when dealing with any electrical shock is:
Do Not Put Yourself at Risk!

If your dog is found in contact with an electric cord or appliance, DO NOT touch the dog, Shut the Power Off.  If you can’t turn off the current, use a wooden broom handle (or other long, non-conductive object) to move the dog a good distance from the source of electricity and any pools of liquid.

Electric shock, also referred to as electrocution, is most commonly seen in puppies and young dogs after chewing electric cables, but can be seen in dogs of all ages, sizes and breeds. 
Other possible sources of danger include faulty wiring, fallen transmission cables, broken electrical circuits and, rarely, lightning strikes during thunderstorms when outside. 
Even melting snow, replete with de-icing salts used to keep sidewalks clear, is a perfect conductor for electricity. 
Or a male dog urinating on an exposed power line or electrical source may cause the current to “jump” and give it a shock

A dog who gets an electric shock may be burned. At their most severe, electrical shocks can trigger seizures or stop the heart. 
The damage can be tricky, because it comes on slowly, sometimes causing an irregular heartbeat with circulatory collapse - followed by cardiac arrest - or difficulty in breathing several days after the accident. 
Electric current also damages the capillaries of the lungs and leads to the accumulation of fluid in the air sacs, a condition called pulmonary edema.

A characteristic sign of electrical shock injury is finding the unconscious dog on the floor near an electrical outlet. Electric shocks can cause involuntary muscle contractions of the dog's jaw that may prevent him from releasing his hold on a live wire. Dogs who survive electric shock may cough, have difficulty breathing, drool, have an offensive mouth odor, and have burns on the mouth, lips or on tongue.

It is always safer to have your dog checked by a veterinary surgeon as some early signs of breathing problems can only be detected by listening to your dog’s heart and lungs. Please do not give any human medication – this may cause additional problems.

Your vet will perform a full clinical examination of your dog which will include listening to the heart and lungs, and closely examining the site of the shock for evidence of trauma to the soft tissues. The vet will be looking for signs of life threatening injuries, burns and pain.

There is no single test which proves your pet has been electrocuted; the diagnosis is reached using the combination of these may include an ECG to check the rhythm of the heart; x-rays or ultrasound scans repeated over several days to monitor damage to the lungs and blood tests to monitor oxygen levels in the blood findings during the examination combined with a history of possible exposure.

Prevention 

• Electricity should always be treated with care: consider your dog as a small, inquisitive child and take appropriate measures to safeguard them in the home.
• Cover power cables if possible or spray them with a bitter-tasting compound to deter puppies and chewers from investigating.
• If your dog is still very young, never leave it alone in a room with live power cables or uncovered sockets.
• Examine the surroundings and clean up any trailing electrical cords. Extension leads can help keep cables close to the walls, out of sight behind furniture, etc.
• Always turn off electrical sockets when not in use – it’s not only safer, it’ll save you money on equipment that runs on standby!

                                                                     Fainting...

13… FAINTING (Syncope)

 Fainting in dogs or canine syncope, occurs when your dog loses consciousness briefly due to lack of oxygen to the brain. Your dog may collapse for seconds or minutes. Most cases of fainting spells in dogs are the result of low blood pressure cerebral hypoxia, lack of oxygen delivery to the brain. Syncope is a symptom of illness; it's not considered an illness in itself.

Causes:

    Sometimes the cause is relatively simple, such as moderate to severe anemia, causing inadequate delivery of oxygen to the brain.

    Severe respiratory dysfunction or airway obstruction (as with severe tracheal or windpipe collapse) can cause fainting, because the blood oxygen level will fall. 

    There are some problems with the involuntary (autonomic) nervous system that are difficult to diagnose, which can lead to fainting in pets. In most cases, however, the cause of syncope is traced to cardiovascular disease (abnormal function of the heart or blood vessels).

 Heart conditions that may cause syncope include:

    Congenital heart defect (birth defects) that obstructs blood flow or prevents the normal movement of blood to the lungs.

    Heart failure with inadequate heart action, leading to reduced blood flow (cardiac output).

    Pulmonary hypertension (high resistance to blood flow in the lungs) such as that caused by heartworm disease or pulmonary thromboembolism (abnormal blood clot formation in the blood vessels of the lung).

    Occasionally, disease of the pericardium (the space around the heart), the heart muscle (cardiomyopathy), the heart valves, or cardiac tumors lead to syncope
. 

    Neurocardiogenic syncope (slow heart rate and abnormal dilation of blood vessels causing low blood pressure) may be precipitated by sudden standing, activity, excitement, urination, or pressure on the neck (hypersensitive carotid sinus).

    Pressure on the neck or collar can cause fainting in some sensitive animals (hypersensitive carotid sinus syndrome).

    High blood pressure (hypertension) that can lead to stoke or abnormal heart function. 

What to Do:

   ü  Immediately position the pet with the head down and the hind quarters elevated. This will                    improve brain blood flow. 

   ü  Cover the pet with a blanket to preserve body heat. 

   ü  If the pet vomits, make sure he or she does not inhale any of the vomitus into his lungs by                    keeping the head down. 

   ü  Seek veterinary attention.

What NOT to Do

   ·         Do not administer anything by mouth. It can be aspirated into the lungs and cause serious                     problems. 

   ·         Do not slap the pet or douse him with cold water trying to shock him into consciousness.  

Do not fail to seek veterinary attention just because the animal recovered quickly and seems fine now. Several of the conditions that cause fainting or dizziness are extremely serious and require diagnostic tests in order to determine the cause and prevent future episodes.

14… FRACTURES:

As responsible pet parents, we all try to prevent our beloved pets from injury. Sometimes accidents happen, and all we can do is help them recover. Bone fractures and breaks are very common injuries among dogs young, old, and in-between. Learn to recognize the symptoms of fractures, how to treat them, and what you can do to prevent these injuries.

No matter how much you try to protect your pet, chances are they’ll get injured a few times in their life. Knowing and recognizing the symptoms of common injuries and illnesses is the best thing a prepared pet parent can do for their pet. Never assume a fracture will heal on its own, and always see your vet if you suspect a fracture.

Causes of Fractures:

The leading cause of bone fractures in dogs is trauma. This can result from a car accident, a fall, or a fight between two dogs. A pressure or force is exerted on the dog’s limb that is too much for the bone to handle and it cracks or snaps. Some medical conditions, like arthritis, can make a dog more prone to fractures. Older dogs have weaker bones and are also more susceptible to bone injuries.

Symptoms of Fractures:

There are different types of fractures, depending on how the bone is broken:

Closed. The dog’s bone may be cracked, but the skin is not broken. Swelling of the area, inability to move the limb, and whimpering indicating pain are all symptoms. Seek veterinary attention and try to keep your pet as still as possible to prevent their condition from worsening.

Greenstick. In these cases, the bone is cracked but not completely fractured. There may be minor swelling and limping, but you should still see a vet to prevent the fracture from healing wrong; this can result in lameness and reduced mobility of the joint.

Compound. The most dangerous type of fracture, the bone is easily visible through the skin. This puts the dog at high risk for infection and also of going into shock. Bleeding, swelling, and aggressive behavior due to pain are symptoms.

Epiphyseal. These fractures occur most commonly in young dogs, as their bones are still growing. The break happens on the soft area of the bone, or the growth plate.

Treatment of Fractures

Depending on the location and type of fracture, splints, pins, casts, plates, and screws may be used separately or together to realign the bone. Healing times depend on the age and breed of the dog, but count on giving your dog lots of loving care. Surgery is sometimes required for more tricky fractures, and pain medication may be prescribed by your vet.

15… HEAD PRESSING:

Please make sure you SHARE this important health information with your animal-loving friends!

The power of social media gives us an opportunity to share our happy and sad moments or to share family photos and videos. Pet parents from around the globe are not far behind with their cute, funny, strange, weird and questionable thing their pets do.

But what if you saw a pet picture posted by your friend showing their dog or cat pressing their heads up against a wall with a cute, funny caption,  your first thought might be that the dog did something bad or is bored, but what if you knew something could be really wrong with the dog?

You’d be doing you friend and the pet a big favor to caution that something seriously could be wrong with his/her pet.

Head Pressing is a serious medical condition, which causes a dog to press the top of his or her head against a wall, into the floor or other large solid objects for no apparent reason — the act of head pressing will go on for extended periods of time and has been observed in cats and dogs as well as cows, horses, goats, and sheep.

When an animal does this, it’s generally an indication of a neurological condition, damage to the nervous system, or a metabolic disorder. Also, at least in dogs, head pressing affects all breeds and age ranges.

Recognizing head pressing is key to getting a pet or animal to the emergency vet before things get worse, and since head pressing is a possible sign of something potentially life threatening, you could be saving your or someone else’s pet’s life!

Causes of this behavior can be related to an illness or injury…

   §  Liver shunt

   §  Brain tumors

   §  Stroke

   §  Toxic poisoning — includes lead

   §  Head trauma

   §  Hydrocephalus — water on the brain

   §  Infectious types of meningitis

   §  Metabolic disorder — too little or too much of needed essential substances

   §  Infection of the nervous system — parasites, rabies or a viral, bacterial or fungal infection.

More signs, symptoms and behaviors to watch for…

Pressing the head against a solid, stationary object like a wall is not the only indication of possible neurological or metabolic distress. Be aware of the following either in addition to head pressing or separate from, if completely out of the ordinary for a pet:

  §  Walking in circles

  §  Pacing constantly — not out of boredom.

  §  Blankly staring at the wall.

  §  Becoming stuck in corners easily.

  §  Pushing face into the ground and rubbing.

  §  Seizures.

  §  Signs of liver disease — jaundice, increased urination, weight loss, lethargy.

  §  Problems with vision.

  §  Reflexes are off.

Finding out what is causing a pet’s head pressing… 

A vet will likely have to do an examination and a series of tests to figure out the problem, and many of the conditions leading to head pressing are often treatable, pets can indeed make a full recovery, but wait too long and there’s the possibility of death. Head pressing most always signifies a very serious illness or injury and you must take action immediately, the sooner the better, by getting your pet to the veterinarian. If your veterinarian is not available, go to another one. This is a life threatening medical emergency that will not wait for anyone.

It’s important to note that head pressing should not be confused with playful head-butting, using the head to push others, or play ramming. And your dog or cat gently rubbing his or her head and face on you is probably not a concerning sign — it’s simply them wanting your affection.



                           
                                            Lee Ellerton, 37, of Staffordshire - locked his dog
                                          in a van on a hot day and died of heatstroke. Ellerton
                                             was jailed for three months and banned from keeping
                                    all animals for life by RSPCA. 

16… HYPERTHERMIA (Heat Stroke)

Hyperthermia means a high temperature and occurs when dogs are no longer able to self-regulate and keep their temperature at the normal level. A fever is another way the temperature can be increased, but this is when the dog’s body increases its temperature to try and fight off infection or as a response to inflammation. Sometimes it can be difficult to tell the two apart.

Hyperthermia may be a life-threatening condition, and does require immediate treatment.  A dog’s normal body temperature is 101.5°F plus or minus 1 degree Fahrenheit, and any time the body temperature is higher than 105°F, a true emergency exists.  
Heatstroke generally occurs in hot summer weather when dogs are left with inadequate ventilation in hot vehicles.  
However, heatstroke may also occur in other conditions.

Signs to see:

   o   Panting, sometimes with a rasping noise associated with it

   o   Sweaty feet

   o   Trying to find somewhere cool to lie

       Frog-leg position (this is your dog trying to get the bare skin on their tummy in contact with                the cool floor)

   o   Dark pink or red gums

   o   High heart rate or pulse rate

   o   Lethargy

   o   Staggering around

   o   Vomiting or diarrhea

   o   Your dog may feel warmer than usual when you touch them

Important information to the Vet.

   o   Tremors – this uses muscles which produces heat

   o   If your dog has been exercised right before this episode

   o   If your dog has been somewhere warm – remember it can get hot in a car even when it isn’t                that hot outside

   o   Any drugs your dog is taking or any illnesses you already know about

   o   If you have tried anything to cool your dog down already

How is it treated?

The vet will examine your dog fully, and decide on the best treatment options for your dog. Your vet will try and differentiate between a true hyperthermia and a fever as they are treated differently.

Possible treatment options include: cooling them with a fan or cool water, drugs to calm them down and starting them on intravenous fluids (a drip).

If your vet suspects your dog has a high temperature due to a fever then they can use drugs to try and help bring the temperature down along with other cooling measures if needed.

If your dog’s temperature is high enough they will be trying to get it down before multi-organ failure is reached as this can need prolonged periods of intensive care and may be fatal.

How can it be prevented?

Think about things that make you hot, and they will make your dog hot too. Dogs are less good at coping with the heat than people as they have a thick furry coat and can’t sweat through most of their skin to cool themselves down. In hot weather it is particularly important to make sure your dog has somewhere cool to lie. Some dogs like lying in the heat of the garden or a conservatory and it is important to make sure that they don’t do this for too long as they can overheat – some dogs won’t realize they have got too hot until it is too late!

 A pet suffering from hyperthermia should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

17… NOSE BLEED (Epistaxis)

The most common cause of a bloody dog nose is a fungal infection or cancer. As mentioned it is just as likely that a temporary problem is due to sneezing. Other causes include bleeding due to an object lodged in the nose. If the dog nose bleeding is due to a tumor it is usually benign or not cancerous. It is rare for a canine nose tumor to become cancerous.

Tumors are usually seen in dogs age 2 - 12 with 10 being the most common age. Nasal adenocarcinoma is the most common tumor type.

 A bleeding dog nose can also represent problems or bleeding in other parts of a dog's body. For example, bruising in other parts of a dog's body can be accompanied by a dog bleeding nose.

Bleeding is also seen when there are problems in the area of the nose such as a tooth abscess. It is possible that bleeding starts on one side of the nose, such as from a dog nose infection that then moves to the side of the nose that wasn't bleeding.

Symptoms of Canine Nose Bleeding and Tumors:
Many of the symptoms associated with canine nose bleeding occur before you actually see blood.  Symptoms include sneezing and discharge from the nose. Discharge may contain blood.

Your dog may have trouble breathing or snoring, a symptom that is consistent with something lodged in the nose. Your dog might be constantly reaching for the nose causing or due to irritation or inflammation and swelling.

Tumors are suspected if blood is coming from only one nostril or there is discharge. Other symptoms of canine nasal tumors are watery eyes, a swollen face, coughing, or some trouble breathing.

Diagnosis of Canine Nose Bleeding:

It is difficult to diagnose nose bleeds. A blood test will be used to see if there are any obvious signs of a problem. If the test comes back normal, then it is assumed that the cause of the nose bleed is isolated to the nose. Your veterinarian might time the duration of the bleed and the time a dog blood test can reveal if infection is the cause of the dog nose bleed.

A dog blood test can reveal if infection is the cause of the dog nose bleed.

X-rays can detect cancer by looking at bones and if they have worn away.

Information for Diagnosing:

First your veterinarian will require a thorough medical history from you. Useful information includes:

Has your pet taken any medication in the past thirty days? Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medications (NSAIDS), especially aspirin, can inactivate blood-clotting factors leading to spontaneous bleeding. Be sure to record all medications and supplements your dog has received.

   ·         Have you used rat poison or other pesticides in your home or yard?

   ·         Has your pet eaten or killed any rodents in the past two to three weeks?

   ·         Has there been any trauma to the nose?

   ·         Have you noticed any dark ‘coffee ground’ vomit or black tarry stool?

   ·         Have you seen any unusual bruising or darkened area of skin?

   ·         Have you noticed any new swelling, lumps or masses?

   ·         Has your dog played roughly with another animal?

   ·         Is your pet exposed to foxtails, grass lawns or other seed heads that could become lodged in the           nose?

   ·         Has your pet been sneezing or rubbing at its nose?

   ·         Have you seen any blood in the mouth or along the gums?

What you need to do:

  1) You need to remain calm and composed. Dogs pick up on your emotions and will react accordingly.

  2) Keep the pet calm. You do NOT want to excite the pet as it will increase its blood pressure and subsequently increase the bleeding.

  3) Apply an Ice Pack –wrapped in cloth - to the bridge of the nose. NEVER APPLY ice pack directly onto nostril. Obviously, be sure your pet can breathe around the ice pack. Use a clean cloth or gauze. The cloth provides a barrier to allow for steady cooling and helps prevent early signs of hypothermia and frostbite. Apply steady pressure on the bleeding nostril using clean cloth or gauze. The cold will constrict small blood vessels which will slow the bleeding.

  4) Take a look at the gums under the lips to see if there is blood in the mouth, or if the gums seem pale. If either is present it would suggest a serious loss of blood. This is an emergency!

  5) Transport to the veterinarian immediately.


                                                                      Paralysis...                               

18… PARALYSIS:

Paralysis in dogs can be one of the most frightening conditions that any owner will ever face as it can literally strike at any time. What makes this potentially life threatening situation even more troubling is that it has several different causes, can affect any dog at any age, and although it can be temporary in some cases, it can also be a permanent condition. For this reason, if your dog becomes paralyzed for any reason at all, the quicker you seek professional medical help the better chance your dog has.

What is paralysis?

Paralysis of a leg often results from damage to the peripheral spinal nerves. Paralysis of a front leg is usually associated with injury to the nerve roots in the neck or shoulder, or injury to the radial, median, or ulnar nerve in the leg. Paralysis of a hind leg is usually associated with injury to the nerve roots in the lower back or tailbone, or the femoral, sciatic, peroneal, or tibial nerve in the leg.

Symptoms and Types 

   o   Not able to move all four legs (tetraplegia)

   o   Not able to move the rear legs (paraplegia)    

   o   Walking with the front feet while dragging the rear legs

   o   Possibly pain in the neck, spine or legs

   o   Not able to urinate

   o   Not able to control urination, dribbling urine

   o   Not able to control defecation    

   o   Slipped discs in the back - intervertebral disc disease)

   o   Discospondylitis – bacterial or viral infection in the bones of the spine (vertebrae)

   o   Infection or inflammation in the spine.

Distemper

   o   Meningomyelitis – viral or bacterial infection of the brain, resulting in miscommunication of nerves impulses

   o   Polymyositis - infection or inflammation in the muscles

   o   Polyneuritis - inflammation in nerves

   o   Embolus - blocked blood flow to the spine

   o   Aortic embolus - blocked blood flow to the rear legs

   o   Tumors or cancer in the spine or brain

   o   Tick paralysis resulting from tick bites

 Uncontrolled urination symptoms:

   o   Urine leakage (involuntary peeing)

   o   Wet hair on the lower abdominal area, or between the rear legs

   o   Wet spots or puddles in the bedding or sleeping area

   o   Urinary tract infections

   o   Inflammation of the skin around the genitals

   o   Moist tissue areas around the penis or vulva

Causes  

Obesity is a common risk factor for incontinence in dogs. Neutering is also one of the primary risk factors for incontinence, however, most animals do not develop any medical disorders as a result of neutering; complications are uncommon. If there is incontinence related to neutering, it will be temporary, as the dog learns to control its urinary muscles again during the recovery process. Other causes for incontinence may include:

Constipation Symptoms and Types

   o   Straining to defecate with small or no fecal volume

   o   Hard, dry bowel movement

   o   Infrequent or lack of defecation   
 o   Small amount of liquid stool with mucus in it - sometimes with blood present, produced after              prolonged straining to defecate (known as tenesmus)

   o   Occasional vomiting

   o   Lack of appetite

   o   Depression

   o   Large bowel (colon) filled with hard compacted fecal material

   o   Swelling around the anus

Causes

   o   Swallowed bones

   o   Swallowed hair

   o   Foreign material

   o   Excessive fiber in the diet

   o   Inadequate water intake

   o   Lack of exercise

   o   Trauma

   o   Intestinal blockage

   o   Paralysis/muscle weakness – muscles of intestines are unable to move fecal material

   o   Low blood calcium

   o   High levels of parathyroid hormone (important in calcium absorption)

   o   Low levels of blood potassium

   o   Low levels of thyroid hormone in the blood

   o   Change of environment – hospitalization, move

   o   Inability to walk to toileting area

Diagnosis 

You will need to provide a thorough history of your pet's health leading up to the onset of symptoms. Your veterinarian will perform a complete physical exam on your dog, including a blood chemical profile, a complete blood count, an electrolyte panel and a urinalysis. 

 In some cases, your veterinarian may order a special x-ray called a myelogram.  If these imaging techniques are not helpful, your veterinarian may order a computed tomography (CT) or magnetic resonance image (MRI) of your dog's brain and spine, both of which give an extremely detailed picture of your dog's brain and spine.

Paralysis can be a devastating conditions as well as a very frightening experience for both you and your dog.  If you see any signs at all of paralysis, you need to seek immediate medical attention.  In most cases, it is usually temporary unless the nerve damage is extensive and the nerve fibers are cut to an extent that they will never grow back together.

19… SEIZURES (Epilepsy)

Epilepsy is a brain disorder that causes the dog to have sudden, uncontrolled, recurring physical attacks, with or without loss of consciousness. 
This may sometimes occur for unknown reasons (idiopathic) or due to genetic abnormalities. However, idiopathic epilepsy is often characterized by structural brain lesions and is more likely seen in male dogs. 
If left untreated, the seizures may become more severe and frequent.

A dog may seizure for any number of reasons.
 Just because a dog has a seizure does not mean that the dog has epilepsy. Just because I have a running nose does not mean that I have a cold. I could have a reaction to someone's perfume, I could have a sinus infection, I could have allergies, I could have ...... . 
There are many tests to determine what exactly I have that is causing my running nose. However, there is no test in the medical industry for the existence of epilepsy (primary, inherited or idiopathic).
 To determine whether a dog has epilepsy or something else, a veterinarian or neurologist arrives at their diagnosis by a process of elimination. They determine what is not and then, hopefully, come to a logical conclusion as to what it is. 
The following is a list of conditions which can cause seizures in dogs. Each condition is discussed in the following sections:

Seizures can be caused by many conditions:

   ·         Congenital defects

   ·         Blood glucose levels that are too high (e.g: Diabetes Mellitus) or too low (hypoglycemia)

   ·         Low oxygen levels in the blood that could be caused by anemia heart problems, or difficulties             with breathing

   ·         Kidney disorders

   ·         Liver disorders

   ·         Infections such as canine distemper.

   ·         Brain tumors

   ·         Toxins, like antifreeze, lead, or chocolate

   ·         Fevers and hyperthermia.

   ·         Brain damage resulting from trauma or poor blood flow to the brain

   ·         Certain medications

   ·         Low calcium in females that are nursing young (eclampsia)

   ·         Primary or idiopathic epilepsy.

Symptoms and Types

Seizures are usually preceded by a short aura (or focal onset). When this occurs the dog may appear frightened and dazed, or it may hide or seek attention. One the seizure(s) begin, the dog will fall on its side, become stiff, chomp its jaw, salivate profusely, urinate, defecate, vocalize, and/or paddle with all four limbs. These seizure activities generally last between 30 and 90 seconds.

 Seizures most often occur while the patient is resting or asleep, often at night or in early morning. In addition, most dogs recover by the time you bring the dog to the veterinarian for examination.

What should I do if my dog has a seizure?

   ü  Remain calm.

   ü  Do not put your hand in your dog's mouth. This will not help your dog and you may be bitten.             (Contrary to popular belief, a dog will not swallow his tongue.)

  ü  To prevent injury to your dog, remove nearby sharp or hard objects (e.g.; tables and chairs).

  ü  If the dog is on a couch or human bed, lower the dog to the floor, if it can be done safely. This            will avoid any injury from falls.

  ü  Remove children and other pets from the area.

  ü  Observe your dog closely. Call your veterinarian if the seizure lasts more than 3 minutes, or if            your dog has one seizure right after another. Severe and long seizures are a medical emergency            and can be fatal.

  ü  A single, mild seizure is not an emergency and rarely indicates the need for long-term                          treatment. But at a convenient time, you should call your veterinarian and report what occurred.          Be sure to record the date, time, and duration of any seizure.

20… SNAKE BITES:

It is summertime and your pets are spending a lot more time outdoors enjoying the pleasant weather.  Well guess what, you’re not the only creature enjoying the nice weather.  Yes, about this time of the year veterinarians begin to see dogs and cats come into the hospitals for treatment of snakebites. Here are some things that you should know to help keep your pet safe from those slithery creatures.

Most snakes will try to avoid you or your pets; snakes typically bite only as a last resort. But while you may wisely decide to simply walk away when you encounter a snake, dogs and cats will often harass the sliding invader -- and may get bitten as a result. Snakes help protect your garden and yard plants because they eat rodents and insects. Most of the snakes you will find are not a problem and they don't harm property.

Most nonvenomous snakes have a large smooth cap over the top of the head past the eyes, divided scales on the underside of the tail, no pits, and no long fangs. Rattlesnakes, copperheads, and cottonmouths are all venomous pit vipers, and have a pit between and slightly below the eye and nostril. Pit vipers also have long movable fangs, a "cat's eye" pupil, undivided scales under the tail, and a large triangular-shaped head with a small shiny cap over the nose.

Don't let your pet examine "road kill" snakes. Dead pit vipers can have some muscle contractions after death, and thus have been known to "bite" even after they're dead. Those bites can still envenomate. Don't handle a dead or injured snake - not even a decapitated head.

If your pet is bitten by a snake that you think might be venomous, get medical attention immediately. It's better to go in and be checked out rather than wait and be sorry.

Recognize Snake Bite and Symptoms:

   §  Local or general swelling

   §  Bleeding

   §  Intense pain

   §  Low blood pressure

   §  Dead tissue around the wound

   §  Shortness of breath

   §  Weakness

   §  Renal failure

Most snakebites on pets occur on the front legs and head, particularly the muzzle. Bites to the body are usually terminal.

Fang marks are suggestive but not conclusive; rattlesnakes may leave single or double fang marks or other teeth marks, whereas bites by nonvenomous snakes usually leave multiple superficial teeth marks. However, the number of teeth marks and bite sites may vary because snakes may strike and bite multiple times.

What to Do If You Think Your Pet's Been Bitten:

  §  Remember to stay calm.

  §  Keep your pet calm, too, by limiting his activity.

  §  If your pet was bitten on the neck, remove his collar.

  §  If possible, keep the location of the bite below heart level.

  §  Seek veterinary care for your pet immediately.

  §  Treatment options such as cold packs, ice, tourniquets, alcohol, bleeding the wound and trying           to suck out venom should not be attempted in place of getting your pet to the vet-they may just           waste precious time.

  §  Always keep your personal safety in mind and do not try to catch or kill a snake yourself.

Avoid chance encounters with snakes:

  Ø  Keep your yard tidy by clearing away undergrowth, toys and tools that make great hiding                    places for snakes.

  Ø  Keep walkways clear of brush, flowers and shrubs.

  Ø  Clean up any spilled food, fruit or bird seed, which can attract rodents-and therefore snakes-to            your yard.

  Ø  When walking your pet, keep him on a leash.

  Ø  Steer your pet clear of long grasses, bushes and rocks.

  Ø  Snakes can strike across a distance equal to about half their body length. If you see a snake,                 head back the way you came.

  Ø  Familiarize yourself with snakes who are common in your area. In the event of a bite,                          identifying the type of snake may help with your pet’s treatment.



                                                    Treating Dog Wounds & Cuts...Click

21… WOUNDS:

Dog wounds develop in different shapes and sizes, for a variety reasons, and can considered be minor to severe in nature. Most dog wounds are general in nature, and can be considered a first-aid situation, while other dog wounds are considered traumatic in nature, and are considered an emergency situation. In order for a dog owner to understand what to do with a wound, they must first understand what kind of wound their dog has sustained, the healing process of dog wounds, and what the treatment options are for different types of wounds.

Abrasions

   ·         Surface of the dog’s skin is scraped, scratched, and usually some bruising is present.

   ·         Area of abrasion will most likely have hair loss present.

   ·         May have some bleeding and oozing at the wounded area.

Lacerations

   ·         Area of skin is broken or cut open and bleeding.

   ·         Area of cut can appear clean and well-defined or jagged and dirty.

   ·         Obvious pain around wounded area.

   ·         Bleeding at site of laceration.

Puncture/Bite wounds

   ·         Small holes will appear at wound site, as well as bruising.

   ·         Bleeding from areas of puncture.

   ·         Pain associated with wounded area.

   ·         Redness and swelling may also be present at site of puncture/bite wounds.

Abrasions - Abrasions occur when the superficial layers of a dog’s skin are scraped, causing a minor area of inflammation, surface bleeding, and bruising. The most common cause for this can be your dog scratching or chewing at an area. Your dog can also cause abrasions by jumping fences, fighting, or being dragged by an automobile, or on a leash. In most cases abrasions are minor and can be treated at home, healing uneventfully.

Treatment:

 Clip the hair around the area and clean the dog’s wound with antiseptic or antibacterial soap and water to remove dirt, debris, and dried, oozing discharge. (You may notice the veterinary technician will put a large glob of KY Jelly right on top of the wound before he/she clips the hair. This is done to protect the area from any additional dirt and hair getting into the wound while clipping.)

Most abrasions will be treated with topical antibiotics over a course 7-10 days. It is not uncommon to also give oral pain medication and oral antibiotics to help combat a major infection from breaking. (If the area is quite painful, your veterinarian may choose to use a mild sedative or general sedation during the clipping and cleaning process.)

Lacerations - Lacerations occur when your dog’s skin is cut or torn open. Depending on what caused the laceration, the result can be a wound that has clean edges and is well-defined and only superficial in nature, or the wound can have jagged edges and be dirty, affecting several layers of the skin and into the muscle tissue.

Treatment:

Most lacerations will be treated under some degree of sedation. If the laceration is simple and clean, then the area is clipped and cleaned surgically for closure.

The laceration will most likely be closed using surgical glue, sutures, or staples.

Oral antibiotics and oral pain medication will most likely be prescribed to assist in the healing process.

Bite Wounds/Puncture Wounds:

Objects that pierce the dog’s skin, leaving a small hole on the surface, are considered a puncture wound. When this occurs, bacteria can enter the dog’s wound and cause infection at a rapid rate. Cat bite wounds tend to be small puncture wounds that become infected very quickly. Dog bites can be large punctures involving deep layers of skin and muscle, or they can also appear as gashes - usually around the neck or ear of your dog. Puncture/bite wounds can be very painful, especially if your dog was picked up by the teeth of another animal and shaken. Bite wounds on dogs are easily disguised by their fur and they can develop into an abscess if they are not noticed right away by the dog owner.

Treatment:

Your veterinarian or veterinarian technician will clean and clip the area and may make the puncture wounds a bit larger in size to ensure that bacteria does not get trapped inside and cause an abscess to form. 

The puncture holes are then irrigated vigorously with an antiseptic solution and left open to heal from the inside out.

It is common to take a sample of the fluid inside the puncture wounds and send it off to do a culture/sensitivity test. The results of this test will help in determining the best antibiotics to treat or prevent infection.

Oral antibiotics and oral pain medication will most likely be prescribed to assist in the healing process. 

CAUTION:

Wounds are painful, be careful when treating your dog’s wound. It is advisable to use a muzzle ask someone to help restrain your dog so you don’t get bitten!

                    
                     

                             A Dog’s Best Friend

                         O Lord, don’t let me once forget,

                         How I love my trusty pet

                         Help me learn to disregard canine craters in my yard.

                         Show me how to be a buddy even when my sofa’s muddy.

                         Don’t allow my pooch to munch postal carriers for lunch.

                         Shield my neighbor’s cat from view, guide my steps around the poo.

                         Train me not to curse and scowl when it’s puppy’s night to howl.

                         Grant I shan't awake in fear with a cold nose in my ear.

                         Give me patience without end  

                         Help me be… “A DOG’S BEST FRIEND.”

             Keep your dog cool this summer…